2007 Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Spatlese

I'm tempted to assert that with his second rendition of this parcel (half of which gave its first crop) - namely his 2007 Kreuzncher Krotenpfuhl Riesling Spatlese - Donnhoff has hit a towering home run, except that the metaphor seems wrong for a wine that is really quite delicate and subtle. But what complexity and sheer sensual allure this has! Peony, lily, tangerine, blood orange, mint, and quince in the nose lead to a richly-textured, palpably high-extract, yet buoyant and refreshing palate performance, with a sneaky appearance of honeyed botrytis. And talk about salinity, savor, and animality in wine: you'll know what they are when you taste this. A finish can afford to be understated if it never seems to end. Absent a track record, it's still hard to imagine this rewarding fewer than two decades in the cellar, although like Donnhoff's Kirschheck, one certainly wants to savor some of it young. While Donnhoff returned to his usual humility in characterizing the latest vintage - following an atypically unabashed outbreak of enthusiasm in describing his indeed amazing collection of 2006s - it is clear that the 2007s delight him in a similar way, as outstanding representations of their respective sites at Spatlese ripeness. (Note, incidentally, that the Pradikat has been removed from any dry wines here, in keeping with a new convention of the Nahe branch of the VDP growers- association.) -Within that range of ripeness,- he submits, -one best-recognizes the site. Here you have nothing exaggerated, but instead a normal harvest, meaning a documentation of the vineyards, each a different face on the landscape. They all went to the same school and had the same opportunities- he adds, gesturing to the long row of Spatlesen on the tasting table, and alluding to his own role as well as the vintage-s. -It was a bit intimidating this year at harvest,- he added, -because when the grapes are perfect, you can only make mistakes.- I had the rare fortune to taste this collection twice, and like so many 2007s (a comment that even more growers made about their 2008s) the wines were much more impressive in September than in Spring. A 2007 Hermannshohle Trockenbeerenauslese, by the way, is still trying to become wine after two years. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300