2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Cask 23

Full bright ruby. Lively, nuanced scents of black raspberry, licorice, mocha, coffee, tobacco and soil, lifted by a subtle floral topnote. Suave, fine-grained and silky but penetrating too, with subtly complex tobacco leaf and herb nuances accenting the flavors of red and black fruits, licorice and cedar. Lovely inner-mouth energy and lift here; nothing heavy or sweet about this wine. Finishes with very smooth tannins and subtle floral/earthy persistence and lift. This very subtle, laid-back wine is at the beginning of its peak drinking plane. Really dances on the palate.

Mid crimson. Very appetising and toasty nose. Lots of appeal and raciness. Certainly whistle clean, and lively. I suspect it is no bargain but it is transparent without being skinny. (JR)

In a vintage such as 2010 where individual terroirs are so clearly marked, the Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Cask 23 - a blend of the SLV and Fay - is at a distinct disadvantage because it naturally lacks the character and personality of those two wines. I must also note that the SLV and Fay have improved dramatically on their own terms, so the rationale of blending them is further diminished. To be sure the Cask 23 is an excellent representation of the vintage. There is plenty of 2010 fruit, structure and tannin, along with attractive hints of smoke, tar and incense, but at the end of the day, I find the Cask 23 less satisfying than Stags' Leap Wine Cellars' very best wines.