2011 Savigny Les Beaune La Dominode

Jean-Marc’s two-hectares of Dominode come from an intermingling of young and old vines. The 2011 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode has a complex bouquet delivering raspberry and wild strawberry at first, but there is an undercurrent of cold stone and a soupcon of cold black tea. The palate is very well-balanced with a lithe opening and filigree tannins. Yet there is certainly good structure on the firm, no-messin’ finish. The fruit is pure here, very mineral-driven with a hint of spice on the aftertaste. Superb. Drink 2014-2023. The road resurfacing on the boiling hot Tuesday afternoon of my visit almost thwarted me from reaching Domaine Jean-Marc and Hugues Pavelot (God only knows how the tar could have actually melted in those temperatures.) It was a relief to descend into the cool cellars with Hugues Pavelot who works alongside his father. He seemed guarded at first, perhaps more laconic than other young winemakers that I meet, but relaxed and opened up once we began discussing his wines. This has been a go-to address for great Savigny-les-Beaune for a number of years, demonstrating the heights that can be achieved and their 2011s are definitely worth seeking out. There is a simple approach with prudent use of oak that hovers between 15 and 30% new wood. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70

There is stunningly good aromatic complexity to the spicy black cherry, cassis and plum-inflected nose that is trimmed is noticeable wood. Like the Gravains there is outstanding richness and volume to the mouth coating medium-bodied flavors that enjoy a plenitude of dry extract before culminating in a mineral-driven and explosively long finish. This is almost always the best wine and so it is again in 2011 as it possesses the most underlying material as well as the most development potential of any wine in the range though patience will be required. Tasted: Apr 15, 2013. Drink: 2023+

Jean-Marc’s two-hectares of Dominode come from an intermingling of young and old vines. The 2011 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode has a complex bouquet delivering raspberry and wild strawberry at first, but there is an undercurrent of cold stone and a soupcon of cold black tea. The palate is very well-balanced with a lithe opening and filigree tannins. Yet there is certainly good structure on the firm, no-messin’ finish. The fruit is pure here, very mineral-driven with a hint of spice on the aftertaste. Superb. Drink 2014-2023. Aug 2013, www.robertparker.com