2003 Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett
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Tasting notes
Apple with delicate hints of blackberry and purple plum in the nose. Juicy and engaging on the palate, with a finish of spiced apple, licorice, vanilla, blackberry and wet stone. This has elegance, a complex interplay of flavors and delicacy-true Kabinett character if you will-which Schaefer traces in part to the somewhat more water-retentive soil here vis-a-vis Domprobst. A fine and fascinating wine that should become even more so as its youthful sweetness backs off a bit. 1 star.
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Pierre Rovani
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A complex and expressive wine, the 2003 Riesling Kabinett Graacher Himmelreich displays a profound nose of chalk, white flowers, spices, and limestone. Upon tasting this beauty I double-checked the bottle’s label as Kabinetts of this intensity, depth, and concentration are few and far between. Its personality bursts on the palate, expands, and releases flavors reminiscent of ripe green apples, raspberries, red currants, pears, limestone, and salty minerals that seamlessly extend into its impressively long finish. Projected maturity: now-2014. Bravo to Willi Schaefer for having crafted such beauties! Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300