2009 Roberta's Reserve

Healthy medium ruby. Pomerol-like aromas of redcurrant, iron, tobacco and mocha torrefaction. Wonderfully pliant, fleshy and full, showing less complexity in the early going than the 2010 version but more obvious sweetness to its berry, mineral and floral flavors. This big, ripe, seamless wine boasts excellent vinosity. The very long, rising finish features ripe, granular tannins and lingering notes of mocha, dried flowers and tobacco. I'd love to throw this into a blind tasting of 2009 Pomerols. (14.1% alcohol; all French oak, 90% new)

The 2009 Roberta’s Reserve (14.2% alcohol), a luxury Merlot-based wine, is composed of 96% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. It possesses copious amounts of melted chocolate, fudge, espresso roast, black cherry, plum and Asian spice characteristics that hit the palate with a full-bodied crescendo, wonderful opulence and a juicy, succulent, voluptuous texture. This beauty is hard to resist. Unfortunately, they only made 260 cases, or 8% of the total production. It is hard to believe the Kapcsandy family, of Hungarian descent, purchased this property previously known as State Lane Vineyard in Yountville (15.5 acres alongside the Yountville cross roads) in May, 2000. They have been on a winning track ever since the first releases. The harvest dates at Kapcsandy will give readers a specific indication of how cool 2009, 2010 and 2011 were. That began to change with 2012 and continues with an earlier, riper harvest in 2013 as well. In 2009, Kapcsandy harvested their small vineyard in Yountville between the beginning of October and October 29. In 2010, the harvest for the most serious wines began on October 19 and ended November 4. In 2011 it was even more significant, with the harvest starting in early October, but not finishing for some cuvees until October 27. In 2012, the harvest began in September, which is more normal, but unfurled over a full month, finishing October 25. Kapcsandy’s 2010s, like many of the Bordeaux varietals in Napa Valley, are exceptionally successful. This was my first look at these 2010s (almost all of them from bottle) and it has turned out to be a sensational vintage of deep, rich, full-bodied wines that are very expressive and focused with plenty of aging potential. It is a less glamourous and exuberant vintage compared to 2007 or 2002, but may evolve along the wines of the great 2001s which were more closed, firm and restrained. Nevertheless, it’s a vintage to jump on as most of the wines are just hitting the market in 2013 and early 2014. A more mixed vintage, the quality in 2011 is much more irregular than one normally sees in Napa Valley. Kapcsandy’s wines turned out well, although overall the ratings are the lowest I have given their wines since they started producing estate wines. Lou Kapcsandy and his son Louis said they did a Draconian selection process that began in the vineyard with radical leaf pulling and a selection of only the ripest bunches because the vintage was so challenging. Kapcsandy’s 2012s appear to be the finest wines they have made since the 2007s. Readers should keep an eye out for Kapcsandy’s two Rose cuvees, which are made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Tel. (707) 948-3100

Kapcsandy's 2009 Roberta's Reserve is one of the most polished and refined wines of the vintage by a mile. A core of insistent minerality layered with sweet floral notes form the backbone as this delineated, vibrant wine continues to open up beautifully in the glass. The 2009 Roberta's is all about finesse. The overall sensation is one of total seamlessness and silkiness. At the same time, there is more than enough tension and sheer power for the 2009 to drink beautifully for years. The 2009 Roberta's is 96% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc.