1991 Meursault Les Perrieres

The 1991 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is showing brilliantly, wafting from the glass with aromas of buttered citrus, crisp orchard fruit, wet stones and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, tensile and incisive, it's deep and concentrated, with racy acids, chalky structuring extract and a long, mineral finish. Ironically, while the 1989, 1990 and 1992 vintages chez Lafon are much more celebrated, it is the 1991 that would take the crown in any comparative tasting today. After an hour or two in the glass, the wine falls off a little, but this remains a very compelling performance.