1985 Meursault Les Perrieres

Bright orange-gold. Knockout nose combines pungent yellow fruits, hazelnut, iodine, saffron, sea salt and grilled oysters, plus a suggestion of red berries. At once penetrating and suave, conveying outstanding energy, density and power, not to mention compelling sweetness of fruit. The impression of dry extract is palpable and the wine's utterly palate-staining, rising finish makes it hard to spit. And yet this gripping Perrières also stands out for its refined texture. I must note that when I pulled the last bottle of this wine from my personal cellar I was disappointed to see that the fill was a good two inches below the cork, even if the wine's color looked fine and there were no signs of leakage through the cork. So this appears to be one of those rare, almost magically bulletproof old white Burgundies.