2010 Meursault Les Perrieres

The 2010 Meursault Les Perrieres bristles on the palate with melted rocks, pears, jasmine and a hint of smoke. This is typical Perrieres in its cool, mineral notes and taut personality. There is a vibrancy and energy in the Perrieres that is striking. Another year or two in bottle should help the wine come together even more fully. The expressiveness and depth of the finish bodes well for the future. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Vincent Girardin recently sold his operation to Compagnie des Vins d’Autrefois, which previously had an ownership stake in the company. As part of the transaction, Girardin keeps eight hectares of vineyards, from which he will continue to supply the house. I am told that all the other fruit contracts remain in place, ensuring continuity in the maison’s range. Long-time winemaker Eric Germain, who has worked alongside Girardin for ten years, remains at the helm. So far, it looks like a little has changed, but it is early days so we will see. Germain told me the 2010s were harvested beginning on September 5. The premier and grand crus spent 18 months in oak (20% new), followed by two months in steel before being bottled in April and May 2012. As I wrote last year, the Girardin wines have undergone a pretty dramatic stylistic shift over the last few years. Today, the wines are made in a brighter, more focused style with less of the overt richness and oak influence the winemaking team believes was contributing to the premature evolution of the wines. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Bright yellow with a green tinge. Lemon, lime and musky, stony minerality on the nose. Dense and chewy, with a captivating sweet/saline quality to its crushed stone and spice flavors. Very well balanced wine with much more structure than the Charmes. Finishes very long, with a citrus edge.