2007 Meursault Les Perrieres

Now at ten years old, Pierre Morey's 2007 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières is at full flight. You might argue that it had a tough time following a 1990 Les Perrières from Coche-Dury—and at ten times the price—but the fact is, this wine was streets ahead. Glistening in the glass, it evoked images of crushed stone, with faint hints of freshly cut pineapple and white peach. The palate is tensile—full of coiled-up energy—and expresses that stony quality that defines this great vineyard, unlike the aforementioned 1990. It comes with disarming purity and precision, then a touch of salinity on the finish. It is a regal Meursault that is going to give another decade's worth of drinking pleasure. Tasted May 2017.

(the fruit here came in with 13+% natural alcohol) Pale, bright yellow. Knockout nose combines underripe pineapple, crushed stone and a flinty nuance. Big, rich and voluminous, but with lovely penetration and purity to the pineapple and crushed stone flavors. Wonderfully sweet, tactile wine with outstanding density and breadth for the year. This very long, scented wine remained on my palate for minutes. From very old virused vines in a spot that's protected from wind by walls on three sides, notes Morey. But the yield in 2007 was still a solid 45 hectoliters per hectare. Wonderfully powerful, youthful Meursault that should reward a decade of aging.

Bright, pale yellow. Slightly reduced aromas of citrus fruits, minerals and crushed stone. Suave, rich and airy, with a captivating sugar/acid balance and vibrant flavors of lemon and stone. A step up in energy from the Tessons, this rather powerful, tactile wine shows impressive building persistence. This was 13% natural alcohol chaptalized to 13.3%, according to Morey.