2011 Morey St Denis Clos de la Bussiere
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Tasting notes
The 2011 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru is a wine that I derided at the "Burgfest" tasting that was under blind conditions. This bottle seems to reconfirm my view because however much I try, I cannot like this wine. The problem is that it feels like the stem addition does not gel with the rest of the wine. It juts out on the nose, sings from a completely differently hymn sheet to the fruit or the tannins and after a couple of hours it still feels like two different wines inadvisably blended together. The palate is the same - the ripe black cherry and blueberry fruit marred by a stemmy, bell pepper note that never melds together. Readers will know how much I admire Christophe Roumier’s wines...just not all of them. Tasted at a private dinner at La Trompette.
Critic scores
Average Score
Allen Meadows, Burghound
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Morey Saint Denis Clos de la Bussière from Christophe Roumier has a rather dense bouquet with blackcurrant pastilles, dried herbs, sous-bois and stemmy scents that become more intense with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a stern entry. There is a tinny tincture in the mouth, the finish missing the complexity of a premier cru, the aftertaste spicy with a dash of black pepper. I have to be honest, this did not put in a good performance and I was not the only taster to criticize this wine before its identity was revealed.
Roumier's 2011 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de La Bussière is terrific. Dark plum and cherry notes meld into cloves, menthol and spices in a layered wine dripping with class. Veins of underlying minerality give the 2011 much of its energy and tension. Although Christophe Roumier's wines have become objects of desire for Burgundy lovers all over the world, the Clos de La Bussière remains the most under-appreciated of his wines, mostly because it is often much less charming young than the Chambolles. Readers who can cellar the 2011 are in for a real treat.
About the producer
Based in Chambolle-Musigny, the domaine was established by Georges Roumier in 1924. The domaine started to bottle their own wines in 1945.