2004 Meursault Charmes

(from a parcel just below Perrieres; these degenerating vines, planted in about 1975 with the SO4 clone, give smaller grapes and earlier ripeness; one of three barrels were new) Ripe, bright aromas of lemon cream and vanillin oak. Big, rich and broad, with an enveloping texture and a superb sugar/acid balance. This has power and size but remains bright and focused. A round, deep, classic Charmes that finishes broad and long, with lemon and stone nuances.