2006 Angelus

Tasted at Bordeaux Index's annual 10-Year On tasting in London. The 2006 Chateau Angelus, a blend of 47% Cabernet Franc, 50% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, has a very perfumed bouquet with scents of blueberry, cassis, crushed violets and just a touch of mushroom. This is very generous. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth, slightly toasty entry. The acidity is quite low compared to other 2006 Saint Emilions, but there is harmony here and the tannins seem very fine. There is real density on the finish, although I was just seeking a little more delineation to come through. Give this another two or three years in bottle.

This is another sleeper of the vintage from Hubert de Boüard. The 2006 reminds me somewhat of the 2001, perhaps not quite as lush at this state, but underrated as a vintage at this property. Dense purple, with sweet boysenberry, blueberry and black-raspberry fruit, licorice, chocolate and a touch of barbecue smoke, a bit of graphite also makes an appearance in this full-bodied, opulent wine that seems to be maturing much like the 2001. Drink it over the next 20-25 years.||The Boüard family, the proprietors of Château Angelus, date from 1544 in St.-Emilion. Located on lower hillsides, with a southerly exposure, their 67-acre vineyard, composed of sandstone, limestone and clay, is planted with 47% Cabernet Franc, 50% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Hubert de Boüard, who single-handedly elevated the quality from one of mediocrity (vintages such as 1978, 1982, 1983, and 1985 were disappointing), hit pay dirt with his efforts starting in 1988. Since then, there has been a remarkable succession of great wines. Radical viticulture such as crop-thinning, shoot-positioning and the immensely labor-intensive manual destemming are employed. Both a second and third wine are made, as the selection process for Angelus is severe. All of this resulted in the 2012 Angelus being upgraded, along with Pavie, to Premier Grand Cru Classé A, joining Cheval Blanc and Ausone as one of only four estates in St.-Emilion to receive this accolade. Aging takes place in 100% new oak for 18-24 months, after which the wine is bottled with neither fining nor filtration.

Very blackish purple. Some luscious development on the nose. Sweet and charming and round with some well-managed tannins on the finish but much readier - and more convincing - than some of its peers. Mineral and just a bit tough on the end.