2008 Bourgogne Rouge

Poor flowering so drastically reduced yields at the generic level that the Groffiers declined to even show me their 2008 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, but their 2008 Bourgogne is impressively ripe in a blueberry-boysenberry preserve way, hints of resin and spice from barrel as well as a plush texture adding to this Pinot’s rather confitured appeal. A slightly green note arguably offers a sense of cut and refreshment in a satisfyingly-long finish, but I would plan on enjoying this impressively dense generic over the next 12-18 months rather than hoping for later harmony as carnal and secondary notes inevitably emerge. Nicolas Groffier seems not to have been bashful when it comes to extracting flavors from the family’s 2008 grapes (harvested in a mere 5 days, finishing October 1), despite what he emphasizes was the tiny size of both yields and berries. When it comes to elevage, though, he was cautious even at a risk he acknowledges of wines that might show stiffly and reductively for a while after bottling, having racked the young 2008s into tank after just shy of 12 months, which for some lots meant almost immediately after the conclusion of malo. (Bottling sessions were in December and February). Natural alcohols in 2008 were in the upper 12’s (the 2007s were very slightly higher) and typically adjusted by about a quarter of a degree. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93, also imported by Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com