2005 Bourgogne Rouge

Superb quality this year (and from entirely new barrels) commences already with a 2005 Bourgogne Cuvee de Noble Souche sourced from vines in pebbly soil at Daix, a northwestern suburb of Dijon. Sweet berry ripeness, roasted meat, and hints of flowers in the nose segue into a polished, glycerine-rich mouthful of black fruits, meat, pungent brown spices and salty, savory minerals. This finishes with startling brightness and grip – and not “just” for its appellation! Taking over this domaine in his mid-twenties, Arnaud Mortet appears poised to bottle a superb collection from his father’s final harvest. The crew took a brief second pass over certain parcels, he relates, and the bunches from some young vines required triage, but otherwise the fruit was perfect at first picking. Malolactic fermentations continued well into last autumn. Mortet emphasizes that he will continue a search for elegance and refinement begun in recent years, with a lighter touch during fermentation, and at least for vintage 2006 the employment of some previously-used barrels in order to de-emphasize wood at the modest end of his price spectrum. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400.