1982 Barolo Monprivato

Mascarello's 1982 Barolo Monprivato is perfumed and ethereal in the way it literally floats on the palate. Sweet, silky tannins frame a pretty core of fruit as this sublime Barolo opens up in the glass. As beautiful as the wine is, this is not the very finest bottle of the 1982 I have had. Still it is gorgeous, and well-stored examples should deliver much pleasure for at least another decade.

That disappointment was quickly forgotten with the appearance of the 1982, one my personal favorites. Though not terribly expressive on the nose at first, the stunning 1982 Barolo Monprivato comes to life on the palate, where is displays generous amounts of sweet fruit, tobacco and mineral notes, with excellent concentration and an expansive, profound personality which recalls the ripeness of the 1990 but with the length, finesse and classic structure that defines the 1989. It is one of the most complete and thoroughly enjoyable wines of the evening, competing with the 1989 for honors as the best Monprivato of the 1980s. A great effort.

Medium red with an amber rim. Plum and nut skin on the nose, along with a faintly medicinal eucalyptus note and a whiff of Madeira. Quite fat but less deep than the '85 or '89; I got an impression of uneven ripening. Lacks the class of the best vintages of Monprivato. Finishes with big, chewy tannins and a hint of dryness. I've had better bottles of this vintage.