1995 Blagny le Piece Sous le Bois

Blagny is a tiny hamlet and appellation within the Meursault boundaries near the wooded crest on the Puligny-Montrachet side of Meursault. The reds must sport the Blagny appellation. I have been an enthusiastic fan of Matrot's Blagny La Piece Sous Le Bois (which translates to "the parcel under the woods") since I tasted it a number of years ago. Jean-Marc Roulot (of the Domaine Guy Roulot) told me it was among the best red Cote de Beaunes. The '89, '90, and '92 are extremely well-made, sultry, sweet, thick and juicy examples of intensely cherry-flavored Pinot Noir. Matrot's 1995 Blagny La Piece Sous Le Bois is another superb offering. Possessing a bright ruby color and gorgeously expressive raspberry and black cherry aromas, this succulent, beautifully ripe, medium-to-full-bodied and oily-textured wine explodes on the palate with layered cherry and candied strawberry flavors. Its long and intense finish ends on a solid backbone of tannin. Projected maturity: 1999-2004. As Daniel Haas, this estate's US importer put it so succinctly, "Thierry hates new oak in white wine." Thierry Matrot, the gentleman in question, runs this domaine which bears his grandfather's name. In 1995, both his red and white offerings show perfectly ripe fruit, which, in the case of the whites, is particularly important as no new oak flavors are present to mask any flaws in the fruit. His delicious and succulent reds are aged in 20% new oak. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.