1996 Clos Vougeot

Good fresh red. Blacker, more austere aromas of black cherry, herbs and licorice. Rather tough in the mouth, but intensely flavored. Fairly tannic but long on the finish. Will need substantial aging.

This medium-to-dark ruby-colored offering has sweet cherry aromas immersed in Asian spices. It is a broad, ripe, austere, highly-structured, and concentrated wine crammed with cassis-liqueur, road tar, game, and roasted spices. Somewhat backward and unyielding, it will require cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2009. This wine is the last this estate will produce. Christophe Roumier's cousin Laurent has re-claimed the parcel for his newly-founded domaine (see Domaine Laurent Roumier). Roumier informed me he was planning to bottle his 1996s earlier than usual to "trap the fruit." He is of the opinion that they will not be exuberant, charming, and seductive following bottling. Virtually every vigneron agreed that the 1996s have been a delight to drink from the moment the grapes were pressed. Yet Roumier thinks they will need years to be expressive. Those 1996s that I have tasted stateside have maintained their forward, fruity character, but time will tell. Importer: Chateaux and Estates Wine Co., New York, NY; Tel; (212) 572-7725.

Good deep red. Darker aromas of black cherry, licorice and herbs. Tough but dense; still somewhat angular but a bit less bony than usual for this wine. Inky flavors of black cherry, tar, iodine and pepper. Finishes with fairly tough tannins.