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Tasting notes
Cedar, tobacco, roasted meats, and lightly-cooked black raspberry and cherry in the nose of Mortet's 2006 Clos Vougeot presage its performance on a quite texturally refined – indeed, almost plush – palate. This evinces a sense of extract-richness and sheer density while displaying elegance and lift. The sense of fruit sweetness here is subtle, allowing the marrow-like dimension of carnal richness to take the lead in a long, rewarding finish. I would give this a few years in bottle and count on 10-12 of excellent performance. I find the quality here noteworthy considering that this appellation has nearly always – even in 2005 – struck me as something of a step-child in that respect like Mortet's Chambolle, which incidentally was inexplicably absent from the line-up I tasted with him. For his first entirely solo vintage, Arnaud Mortet was saddled with a load of challenges, most notably the legacy of hail in so many of his vineyards. His reaction was to back off on extraction and new wood, trends which he seems inclined to continue pursuing even in less tricky vintages. He opines that the "acid structure" of his 2006s – which are also amply endowed with largely fine-grained tannins – will help them age well. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
Critic scores
Average Score
David Schildknecht, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Good full medium red. Complex, expressive nose offers redcurrant, plum, minerals, iron and menthol, with higher-pitched crushed violet and blackberry notes emerging with air. Lush and sweet on entry, then quite closed and youthfully medicinal in the mid-palate, despite the impression of almost decadent sweetness conveyed by the nose and a rather suave, fine-grained texture. Best today on the building spice-and-menthol finish, where the wine's sweetness becomes apparent again. This is hiding more than it's showing today.
Good deep red. Sexy aromas of musky red berries, wild cherry and coffee; aromatic if a bit reduced. Sweet, smooth and suave, if a bit youthfully compressed. Not at all a big wine but fine-grained and fresh for its high level of ripeness (this was not chaptalized). This offers lovely fruit and shows a gentle hand with the extraction. Impressive rising finish is subtle and long, with tannins quite suave.
Cedar, tobacco, roasted meats, and lightly-cooked black raspberry and cherry in the nose of Mortet's 2006 Clos Vougeot presage its performance on a quite texturally refined – indeed, almost plush – palate. This evinces a sense of extract-richness and sheer density while displaying elegance and lift. The sense of fruit sweetness here is subtle, allowing the marrow-like dimension of carnal richness to take the lead in a long, rewarding finish. I would give this a few years in bottle and count on 10-12 of excellent performance. I find the quality here noteworthy considering that this appellation has nearly always – even in 2005 – struck me as something of a step-child in that respect like Mortet's Chambolle, which incidentally was inexplicably absent from the line-up I tasted with him. Dec 2009, www.robertparker.com
About the producer
This estate, today with Arnaud Mortet at the helm, makes some of Gevrey-Chambertin’s finest wines. Working with 16 hectares, as well as a few négociant parcels, this property makes perfumed and chiselled Pinot Noir.