1990 Yquem
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Tasting notes
Strangely, this is my first note on the 1990 Yquem, a vintage tasted many times. Now 35 years old, it has an enticing bouquet of wild honey, barley sugar, crème brûlée and figs that billows with aeration, certainly more opulent than the '89 but quite irresistible. The palate is vibrant and poised, weighty with plenty of botrytised fruit. This has captivating purity of fruit and in recent years has gained a little more elegance, perhaps less bold than it used to be. Not quite at the level of the '89, yet it appears to be improving with age. Tasted single blind at the 1990 Bordeaux dinner at Medlar.
Critic scores
Average Score
Wine Spectator
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
The estate that led the way in Sauternes, producing only sweet wine from 1847 onwards, owned by the Lur Saluces family since 1785, and named 1st Growth Supérieur in 1855, in reflection of prices that were regularly 4,000 francs and above, the highest in Bordeaux. Today in the hands of LVMH (although still Alexandre de Lur Saluces in 1990), this is a stunning wine full of fleshy opulent pineapple, apricot and tangerine fruit laced with butterscotch, creme brulee, saffron and finessed fresh acidities. Insanely good at 45 years old, and no question that it will keep on delivering from here. Even better than when I last had it three years ago.
Half-bottle. Almost tawny. Creamy texture – very luxurious. This stood up manfully to Mrs Beeton's Christmas pudding but definitely finished drier than it. I'd say half-bottles anyway are ready to drink now. (JR)
Half-bottle. Almost tawny. Creamy texture – very luxurious. This stood up manfully to Mrs Beeton's Christmas pudding but definitely finished drier than it. I'd say half-bottles anyway are ready to drink now. 18/20 points (JR)
About the producer
The undisputed finest sweet wine in the world, Château d'Yquem is the only Premier Cru Supérieur estate in Sauternes, classified in 1855. With a long history stretching back to the Middle Ages, the château is entwined with that of the Lur-Saluces family – who remain involved today.