1986 Yquem

Served blind – but we knew that the donor has the biggest soft spot for Sauternes in general and Yquem in particular. Bright orange. Edgy and fresh with real vivacity and a hint of orange-peel flavour and texture. Quite light on the finish. Round fruit that managed to be both bitter and rich. Quite a triumph! I'm amazed to see that we already have four tasting notes on this gorgeous, still very lively, wine. (JR)

The 1986 Yquem has a rich and generous bouquet with crème brûlée, saffron and dried mango aromas, along with a patisserie scent that is quite pronounced at the moment. There is a spirituous element here that is disconcerting. The palate is well balanced with a spicy entry and plenty of ginger mixed with mandarin and orange rind notes. This is a powerful, almost burly Yquem, though it does not have the complexity and amplitude of the 1988 or 1989. This is a Yquem of stature rather than nuance. Despite perfect provenance, there are better bottles out there. Tasted at the Yquem vertical at the château.

A hot, dry summer in Sauternes, after a difficult early season, and this was one of the latest vintages on record, with harvest really getting underway after a rainy spell in late October, followed by a dry, sunny November that saw picking continue right through the month (the château remembers that much of it took place under a blanket of picturesque mist). The result is extremely impressive, and even now there is a youthful kick to this Yquem. Expect plenty of biting marmalade, pineapple and orange peel, dried fruits layered with truffles, saffran, lemon confit, salted caramel and grilled cumin. Alexandre de Lur Saluces was heading up the estate in 1986, as he had been since the 1960s. 100% new oak for ageing.