2004 Kalimna Block 42

Vines planted in 1888. Dark crimson. Slightly sweet and with a California wood smell. Rich and sweet – very unlike most Cabs! Just a bit too sweet and sweaty for me. And then chewy. Grainy/sandy finish. (JR)

It’s not known exactly when the Kalimna Block 42 was planted but there are suggestions that the vines existed during the latter part of the 19th Century. They could be the oldest Cabernet vines in the world, although the famous Metala Cabernet vineyard in Langhorne Creek was known to have been planted in 1891 so could very well pre-date Kalimna. Regardless, I’ve been there and the vines are truly old. Only very rarely does Penfolds release this as a single vineyard wine, when the Cabernet is so fabulous it can’t possibly be blended. The 2004 Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon was such a vintage. Matured in 100% new American hogsheads for 13 months, it displays a very deep garnet-purple color and profoundly earthy / gamey aromas over black cherry preserves, creme de cassis plus scents of leather, pencil shavings, Mediterranean herbs, black truffles, underbrush and black olives. The elegant, medium-bodied palate is tightly-knit and led by structure with a high level of grainy tannins, very high acid and a long earthy finish. Approachable now, it should continue to evolve and drink to 2025+. With a lot of changes happening around the Foster’s Group, it is business as usual at Penfolds…which seems to operate within its own world. But this is no small world. The vineyard holdings here are vast and the connections with growers go back generations. Chief winemaker Peter Gago is the very well spoken front-man for the production team backed-up Kym Schroeter in charge of the whites and Steve Lienert crafting some very fine, consistent and sometimes inspired reds. If Champagne is all about the art of blending, then Penfolds is the Champagne of Australian wine. Those that think large companies producing wines that emphasize blending can’t make great wines need to think about the Champagne model or simply try some of Penfolds top wines to become believers. That said – check out their recent single vineyard release: the very special 2004 Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon, the first release of a wine made purely from this 100+ year old single block (perhaps the oldest block of Cabernet in the world?) since 1996. Importer: Foster’s Wine Estates Americas, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-4500

Bright violet. Jawdroppingly pure bouquet of blackberry, boysenberry, blackcurrant, kirsch, exotic tobacco, graphite and licorice, with a crystalline mineral tone running all the way through. Like liquid velvet in the mouth, showing a stunning melange of dark berry flavors that seem weightless but pack an amazing wallop of flavor. This is only 13.4% alcohol but has the impact of a 17% monster. Finishes on a delicate floral note-and then the blackberry, licorice and candied violet flavors snap back with a vengeance. The finish refuses to die. Penfolds claims that this is one of the oldest plots of cabernet sauvignon on earth, planted in the mid-1880s; the only other bottlings were in 1953 (as Grange Cabernet), 1961, 1963, 1964 and 1996. Remarkable for its concentration, elegance and balance and probably the greatest Australian wine I've been privileged to drink.