1996 Kalimna Block 42

This wine, made only every decade or so (the next vintage was 2004) from 110 year-old vines, was nowhere near ready in my view, even though I note that Penfolds' website suggests drinking it 2000-2020. I decanted it into a very wide-mouthed decanter two hours before serving but it hardly budged from its super-concentrated, introvert essence of baked Cabernet fruit. Very sweet nose with some raisin quality and the merest whiff of Australian mint (though not so much as to dissuade an experienced blind taster from his guess of Bordeaux). 'Much less advanced than most bordeaux 1996,' was his observation. The tannins are still much in evidence There was considerable deposit on the shoulders of the bottle. Perhaps, like Grange, it will eventually reveal its nuances but for the moment all one can do is admire the concentration. (JR)

Block 42 is the oldest Cabernet plantings in the world – 1882 – and it played a critical role in the development of Grange and Bin 707. For a while it went into blends but from around 1996 there was a new focus on trial winemaking at Penfolds. Released only in 1948, 1952, 1953, 1961, 1963, 1964, 1996, 2004 (not always enough fruit and not always consistent). Stainless steel tanks with wooden header boards to submerge the cap. Fermentation completed in new American oak hogsheads. Approximately 13-18 months' maturation. Very sweet, almost too sweet, cassis. More leafy on the palate. Very youthful and intense flavours but only medium bodied. US oak. Thick mouthcoating tannins, a little harsh and dry on the finish. Maybe just needs more time? (JH)