1996 Mazis Chambertin

The 1996 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is a mighty wine, probably at the peak of its powers after 20 years. It is blessed with a truly fabulous nose: dark cherries, Indian ink, violet and loganberry. There is opulence here but also enthralling delineation and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with a twist of bitter cherry on the entry. There is the backbone one expects from this Grand Cru, a sense of "seriousness" towards the aloof finish. Linear yet very persistent, this is a Mazis-Chambertin that wants its presence to be felt but cannot bring itself to fully let go and engage. Yet it is still a fantastic wine that bizarrely after 20 years might benefit from further bottle age. 870 bottles produced. Tasted at the d'Auvenay dinner in Hong Kong.