1996 Mazis Chambertin

This wine is produced from 51-56 year old vines and aged in 3 new barrels (2 Troncais, 1 Allier). It displays a black color and amazingly expressive aromas of syrupy blackberries, Asian spices, stones, briars, rosemary, and hoisin sauce. This blockbuster is a serious and intellectual wine yet maintains a great deal of its sensual nature. Velvety black fruits, metals, and juicy cherries can be found in this sublimely delineated yet thick wine. Powerful, graceful, muscular, elegant, concentrated, perfectly-balanced, and intensely flavorful, this magnificent wine should age extraordinarily well. Projected maturity: 2005-2014+. Bravo! Bernard Dugat, with the assistance of his charming wife, son, and daughter, has fashioned extraordinary 1996s, nothing new for this family who, since the 1993 vintage, has been crafting some of Burgundy's finest wines. As I left Dugat-Py's cellars (her maiden name is Py and they added it to the estate's name to differentiate themselves from Bernard's famous cousin Claude) I felt that while his 1996's were superb, his 1995s were even better. With reflection, and with my notes from both tastings in hand, I realize that it comes down to the specific wines. Certain terroirs performed better in '95, and others in '96, most probably due to the weather which dramatically cut back yields in 1995 Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.