2000 Vinha da Ponte

The 2000 Vinha da Ponte is the first in this issue's vertical. In most respects, this is just fabulous. If you are a lover of mature Bordeaux and Burgundy, the fine acidity and complex, tertiary flavor nuances make this simply wonderful. Revel in its sexy maturity. Yet, it is only 15 years old. At least as this bottle shows, this tastes even older. The 2001 Maria Teresa, by contrast, seems far younger and fresher, with only one year difference in their vintage dates. To be sure, that might also be a difference in vintage character. In any event, this 2000 Ponte delivers an array of forest floor and earthy flavors, coupled with (after aeration) the dark chocolate of maturing Port. It is a wine aging quickly, yet rather gracefully. It is one of my favorites in the vertical for drinking right now. What happens in the future? Note that the structure is still beautiful. The tannins provide nice but controlled support and there is a lively feel to the wine. It may not stay at this level as long as we might have hoped, but let's worry about the future when it gets here. If you are a fan of mature wines, you'll understand why this is worthy of some plaudits just now. Remember, too, sometimes as wines age it is more about the bottle than the wine.