2007 Meursault Goutte d'Or

Production of Buisson-Charles 2007 Meursault Gouttes d’Or represents (at six barrels) twice that of previous years. Peach; winter pear; pungent, buckwheat-like milled grain; citrus oils; and briny, alkaline notes mark the nose. A vibratory interchange of mineral, fruit, and nut and grain notes on the bright yet creamily-textured palate leads to a long, savory, saline, chalky, subtly cyanic finish that preserves an abundance of energy. This is a classic example of the house style here at its best, with a caressing textural sense paradoxically allied to an invigorating dynamic, and with enveloping creaminess not precluding refreshment. Count on it for at least a dozen years of intriguing pleasure. Catherine and Patrick Essa’s new reception, crush, and storage facilities are now completed and they have expanded through control of significant additional acreage in Les Boucheres and Gouttes d’Or. Patrick Essa's approach (like that of his father-in-law Michel Buisson) seemed ideal for restraining any over-the-top tendencies of vintage 2006, but the 2007s here are also very successful, if slightly less obviously imposing. Readers are encouraged to consult my report in issue 180 for further details on the approach taken at this under-rated estate that produces consistently age-worthy Meursault. A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29; also imported by Scott Paul Wines, Carlton, OR; tel. (503) 852 7300