2011 Vosne Romanee La Colombiere

Compared to the Village Cru, I found that the aromatics of the 2011 Vosne-Romanee La Colombiere less forthcoming and only reluctantly proffer tertiary, undergrowth-infused red fruit. The palate is more open with tart red cherries and precise, rather angular tannins that segue into a long, slightly saline finish that lingers nicely in the mouth. This is a fine Colombiere, though I find myself preferring the Village Cru just as much. Drink 2014-2018. I have been following Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair since the beginning of their “second coming” in 2001/2002, when Louis-Michel began taking back control of his propitiously located vineyards. Crowned by the monopole of La Romanee, they already had a head start, a scattering of parcels that instantly places the domaine in the first division. But that is not enough on its own. Over the last decade, the wines have become astonishingly refined and let us be frank, with prices to match. During the round of London tastings in January this year I refrained from taking any notes since Burgundy was not my ‘beat’. However, I did make an exception here, in part because of the sheer quality of the wines and also because it has become part of my January ritual. The original intention was to accommodate these notes on “Wine-Journal”, but I publish them here as part of my 2011 report for “The Wine Advocate”. Importers: Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500; and in the UK through Justerini & Brooks; tel. 0081339945935

Rather luscious hint of violets and truffles on this. Very juicy start. More than a nod to DRC over the square in its aromatic profile, although it still has the freshness and reasonably marked acidity of 2011 on the palate. Intriguing! (JR)

Good bright red. Pungent aromas of red raspberry, redcurrant, leather and stone. Nicely deep and fresh, with crushed stone and floral notes giving lift and definition to the middle palate. Finishes ripely tannic and persistent. (The Vosne-Romanee Clos du Chateau was very locked up and saline in November, and impossible to assess with confidence.)