2004 Scharzhofberger Spatlese

Muller’s 2004 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese A.P. #15 offers fresh apple and peach aromas and flavors. Honeyed and subtly creamy on the palate, yet clear, pure, precise and shot-through with fresh fruit character, this evinces a lovely overall impression of lift and delicacy. The finish mingles salty mineral notes and rich yet fresh fruit in a pure, refreshing, yet incipiently profound way. This should be worth following for 15 or 20 years. Muller’s harvest (other than Eiswein) was completed in mid-November because, he maintained, the off and on rain rendered additional development of truly noble rot unlikely. While this year’s collection offered marginally less excitement in the lower price echelons than we have come to expect from a couple of recent vintages, those of the top wines that I tasted were noble indeed - fully worthy of this estate’s lofty reputation and prices. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY (212) 355-0700.