1992 Romanee St Vivant

Confuron's 1992 Romanee St.-Vivant (from vines planted in 1920) exhibits that profound Burgundian perfume of smoked duck, Asian spices, and black-cherries and raspberries. It is awesomely concentrated, with profound fruit that unquestionably came from extremely low yields. Made in a generous, highly extracted style, the wine possesses layers of fruit, gobs of glycerin, and sweet tannin. It is beautifully balanced, with well-integrated wood, and a velvety, glycerin, fruit and alcohol-imbued finish. Drink it over the next 10-15 years. Americans should be grateful that the Jean-Jacques Confuron wines sold in this country are produced from 100% new oak casks and bottled without fining or filtration, and in the case of the 1992s, not racked until just prior to bottling. Compared to the wines sold in Europe, America is receiving far richer and significantly, more complex and compelling wines. Do not believe any of the nonsense from some of importer Robert Kacher's critics that these wines are over-oaked. The well-known, super-talented white winemaker Jean-Marie Guffens-Heynen has often succinctly stated everything readers need to know about the use of new oak - "No wine is over-oaked, just under-wined." Those who complain about too much new oak are usually those who cannot afford it. If yields are low and the wines have the power and extract such as Confuron has achieved, new oak is the perfect vessel as it is sanitary and it actually enhances the quality of the fruit and the terroir. Because of his commitment to crop thinning and extremely low yields (an average of 28-30 hectoliters per hectare in 1992), Confuron has made even greater wines in 1992 than he did in 1990. With the exception of the 1992 Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts, which may turn out better than my rating, all of the 1992 offerings reviewed are sure bets for super drinking. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.