2010 Cornas Reynard

More austere and structured, the 2010 Cornas Reynard offers up a thrilling array of graphite, crushed rock, liquid violet and both black and blue fruits on the nose. Gaining hints of bacon fat and game with air, it hits the palate with a full-bodied, rich and concentrated profile that carries masses of sweet tannin, bright acidity and serious length. Give it 3-4 years of cellaring and enjoy it over the following two decades. Thierry Allemand has been working the steep slopes just outside the town of Cornas since 1982, when he planted his own vineyard. Since then, he has slowly added plots, and now has roughly 10 acres under vine, most in prime spots and granite soils. The winemaking here is very traditional, with little destemming and the wines spending up to two years in older barrels and foudre, with little racking, before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. He normally releases two Cornas; the younger vine cuvee, the Chaillot, which comes from vines from 5 to 40 years in age, and the older vine cuvee, the Reynard, which comes from the oldest vines on the estate (34- to 90-year-old vines). Looking at the 2010s, the wines are more fresh, focused and austere than the 2009s, with additional purity and focus.

Inky ruby. Intense, sharply focused aromas of dark berries, cherry pit, violet, licorice and minerals, with a bright, spicy overtone. Deep in black and blue fruit flavors but also lithe and precise, offering a dizzying array of floral and spice accents that gain strength with air. Show remarkable clarity and power on the finish, which is given grip by impressively fine-grained tannins. An uncanny blend of richness and vivacity, with the balance to age effortlessly.

Tasted in two components: #1, all old vines: intense black raspberry and floral aromas are complemented by exotic spice and mineral notes. Juicy, sharply focused and bright, with outstanding back-end thrust and lingering mineral and anise qualities. #2, mostly from Geynale: deep, penetrating aromas of black and blue fruits, with sexy violet and rose nuances and a hint of spicecake. Sweet, sappy, very pure blueberry and boysenberry flavors reach every corner of the palate. A rich but lithe sample with strong finishing grip.