1992 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet
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The 1992 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet continues to entrance, even if I believe it has lost some of its luster in recent years. Here it has an elegant bouquet that feels quite generous and rich for a 1992, a patina of toastiness that complements the citrus fruit. The palate is rounded in the mouth: hints of almond and coconut, perhaps a notch lower in acidity than I might have liked with a subtle honeyed tincture on the finish. It is a gorgeous Bienvenue if not in the same class as the 1988. Tasted at the La Paulée in Beaune.
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Robert Parker
Neal Martin
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The tightly knit, high acid 1992 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet makes one wonder if some acid adjustments were made. Ripe, tart, tightly knit, and big, it needs another 2-3 years of cellaring; it should keep for 10-12 years. Because the Domaine Ramonet enjoys a mythical status it is fashionable to criticize the wines as not being as exceptional as they used to be. Don't fall for this line of thinking. This domaine produces some of the finest Chardonnays in the world. While other domaines have begun making superb wines over recent years (i.e., Amiot-Bonfils and Colin-Deleger), and others have always made wines as profound as Ramonet, in particular Michel Niellon, the name Ramonet still carries with it a magical significance. If there is any criticism to be leveled, it is that vintages in the late eighties and early nineties appear to possess high acidity. The domaine adamantly denies doing any acidification. Ramonet made excellent 1992s, and very good 1991s that are worthy of serious buyers' interest. Importer: Chateaux and Estates, New York, NY.