2006 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru

Representing as always a blend between wine from young vines in Musigny and whatever lots from the old vines Millet and his colleagues decide to cull from the Vieilles Vignes assemblage, the de Vogue 2006 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru offers a gorgeous nose of diverse flowers and quince that momentarily put me in mind of great Chenin – although abundant sweet red fruits quickly rush in. There is a deep saline, carnal savor here that offers riveting counterpoint to the ripe berries and effusive flowers, and the vintage seductiveness encompasses a plush tactile impression and as well as a finish that would no doubt have a taster visiting from the a few centuries back waxing rhapsodic about bodily humors. Something, at any rate, seems very immediate about this wine's sensuality. It should prove fascinating to follow for the better part of a decade. Francois Millet is always keen to pinpoint the expression of fruit he finds in each vintage, and for him 2006 is an instance of "jellied" fruit character. I can certainly agree with him about the seductiveness of the vintage at this address, and his laconic comment on the communal hail – "not too problematic" – seems clearly born out by the quality this estate has achieved. (I unfortunately did not have chance to taste the de Vogue Amoureuses post-malo, so I must refrain from offering a note.) Imported by Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770; also a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93