1998 Miani Merlot
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Robert Parker
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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The 1998 Merlot (magnum) is another firm, tightly-wound wine. This isn't one of the flashier vintages, but as the wine sits in the glass its pedigree emerges with great eloquence. Suggestions of graphite and minerals add complexity on the cool, refreshing close. In time the 1998 may very well challenge some of the very finest vintages here. There is a slightly angular quality to the 1998 that is in some ways reminiscent of the 2002, but the truth is that any other producer in the world would kill for a wine like this! Rain and generally deteriorating weather towards the end of the growing season forced Pontoni to bring in the fruit a few days earlier than he would have liked and for that reason he finds a slight touch of greenness in the wine.