2006 Barolo Sarmassa

Voerzio’s 2006 Barolo Sarmassa (magnum) literally explodes on the palate with red fruit, flowers, spices and mint. Still tightly wound, the 2006 is an especially powerful Sarmassa that isn’t quite as accessible as it often is at this stage. Still, the wine’s bouquet, purity of fruit and persistence all augur for a long life of magnificent drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. My most recent visit with Roberto Voerzio and his son Davide in November 2009 was one of the most emotionally transcendental experiences I have ever had. When all was said and done, we tasted nearly forty wines spanning vintages 1988-2008, essentially covering this inspired producer’s entire career. That tasting will be the subject of an upcoming article on www.erobertparker.com, but readers can get a sneak peak at some of the 1989s and 1990s that are covered in this issue’s “What About Now.” I saw Roberto Voerzio in September 2006 and toured his vineyards just as the Nebbiolo harvest was about to begin. The fruit was absolutely gorgeous, and fortunately Voerzio was spared any significant damage from hail. Still, Voerzio was not entirely happy with his Barolo La Serra and Merlot, and opted not to bottle those wines. Always one of the first to harvest, Voerzio brought in his Nebbiolo in the first week of September. Vinification is fairly straightforward and takes place in stainless steel. Roberto Voerzio is one of the few producers of his generation who prefers steel for the malolactic fermentations as well. The wines were aged in French oak barrels. Beginning with his 2008s, Voerzio is aging his Barolos in a combination of roughly equal parts large cask and French oak, an approach he used for his early vintages through 1993. The first wines I have tasted from cask have been simply brilliant. It will be fascinating to see where Voerzio takes his craft from here. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Voerzio’s 2006 Barolo Sarmassa (magnum) literally explodes on the palate with red fruit, flowers, spices and mint. Still tightly wound, the 2006 is an especially powerful Sarmassa that isn’t quite as accessible as it often is at this stage. Still, the wine’s bouquet, purity of fruit and persistence all augur for a long life of magnificent drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Feb 2010, www.robertparker.com