1998 Domaine de Chevalier
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Tasting notes
The 1998 Domaine de Chevalier has a bright blackberry- and blueberry-scented bouquet. It’s opulent in the context of the vintage, though it doesn't quite deliver the complexity that Olivier Bernard imparts into his wine nowadays. The palate is quite rounded and sensual on the entry with veins of blue fruit. This is quite polished in style with a more extracted, glossy finish than you would find nowadays. It’s quite delicious, but perhaps falls short of my expectations. Tasted at the Complete Bordeaux Tasting dinner at Hedonism.
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More reviews and scores
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Harvested 25 September to 9 October. Deep, bright core with brick at the rim. Slightly obdurate nose – stony but reticent. Palate harmonious with plenty of freshness and fruit. Stony-mineral finish. Digeste . The epitome of Graves character. (JL)
The 1998 Domaine de Chevalier is a vintage that I had not encountered for a decade. Now at 20-year old it is still a little conservative on the nose and juxtaposed against the 2008, I find the younger vintage has more fruit and charm. This plays it safe, remaining correct and just a little withdrawn. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, slightly dry tannin but a very fine thread of acidity. The fruit feels black and sultry, though there is respectable weight and presence with a spicy finish with a dab of Shezchuan pepper that leaves the mouth tingling. Fine although given that 1998 was a benevolent vintage for the Pessac-Léognan, I was expecting more. Tasted at the château.
About the producer
Since buying the property in 1983, the Bernard family has cemented Domaine de Chevalier’s reputation as one of the Graves’s finest red and white wine producers, known for their sophisticated and elegant wines.