2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Kabinett

The 2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett, which smells of honey-drenched kiwi fruits, displays more creamy richness on the palate than its predecessors yet retains insistently invigorating citrus, fruit skin, and mineral salt notes. There is a light salt water taffy suggestion to the finish but again no lack of sheer juiciness and slate, and ultimately a deep layering of kiwi, citrus, honey, nut oil, and mineral flavors. My only quibble would be that this wine, made from Auslese grade must, should be labeled “Spatlese”, but I would prefer instead to dwell on its being an outrageously good value. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300