1989 Riesling Clos St Hune Vendage Tardive Hors Choix

The last time I drank the 1989 was at God-knows-when-o’clock at Ernie Loosen’s post-VDP auction soirée in 2008, and it has hardly altered since. Limpid in hue after three decades, it is blessed with a heavenly nose of honeysuckle, clementine and hints of wild honey, later joined by tinned apricots and hints of marzipan, all delivered with scintillating precision. The palate feels quite rich, but the acidity effortlessly counterbalances its precocity. The residual sugar (46gm/L) deceptively seems much less than that figure. There is so much energy and raciness in this Vendanges Tardives, an irresistible Riesling that begs you back for one sip after another. If this Hors Choix performs at this level at 30 years of age, then I envisage it still cruising at high altitude in another 30 years. By then, one hopes La Paulées will be possible once more.

RS 37 g/l. Fabulous vintage, especially for noble rot (like 2001). They did a green harvest in July in the Clos Ste Hune vineyard in morning. On the same day there was a hailstorm so this was another shrinkage. But it recuperated very nicely. Generous vintage. The Hors Choix is the heart of Clos Ste Hune – the grapes here are always picked separately, as late as possible, but this Vendange Tardive cuvée is only produced when the fruit is exceptionally fine. The last one of these produced! Bright orange. Racy raisined Riesling notes. Very clean and fresh. Very much classic Riesling plus lots of botrytis. Dry finish, which is what differentiates it from a German Riesling. Super-clean and pure. Lovely balance! Not a matter of power and richness but transparency of the finesse of noble rot. It’s so Riesling! Pure with a beautiful satin texture. (JR)

Just 350 cases of this very special bottling of Clos Ste Hune Vendanges Tardives were made in 1959, 1967 and 1989 and this was the best bottle I have so far tasted – served at the beginning of a dinner to celebrate my birthday, a few months late. Deep orangey copper colour. The nose is fully evolved Riesling though without aggressive petrol notes. Definite sweetness but absolutely not cloying – there is no shortage of acidity. This is hugely appetising (it was delicious with Simon Hopkinson's lobster tartlets) with an impressive undertow of lime marmalade. Something slightly burnt about this. Round but not creamy. (JR)