2005 Brunello di Montalcino La Cerbaiola

I have had mixed experiences with the 2005 Brunello di Montalcino. Some bottles have been terrific, others disappointing. This one is somewhere in the middle. Dark, powerful and a bit advanced, even for this vintage, the 2005 is likely to offer its best drinking sooner rather than later.

Salvioni's 2005 Brunello di Montalcino emerges from the glass with layers of mineral-infused red fruit, roses, menthol, tar and licorice on a soft, textured frame. Deceptively medium in body, the wine boasts superb integrity in its fruit and exceptional overall balance. This is a relatively accessible vintage that should be approachable fairly early. I loved the wine for its sense of harmony and poise, both of which are brilliant. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. Giulio Salvioni crafts some of the most beautiful, artisan wines readers will come across in Montalcino. Everything, including labeling, is entirely done by hand at this tiny property. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Salvioni's 2005 Brunello di Montalcino emerges from the glass with layers of mineral-infused red fruit, roses, menthol, tar and licorice on a soft, textured frame. Deceptively medium in body, the wine boasts superb integrity in its fruit and exceptional overall balance. This is a relatively accessible vintage that should be approachable fairly early. I loved the wine for its sense of harmony and poise, which are both brilliant.