1996 Charmes Chambertin

Produced from a blend of two-thirds Charmes-Chambertin and one-third Mazoyeres-Chambertin (all Mazoyeres are entitled to the Charmes appellation but not vice-versa) and aged in 80% new oak barrels, this wine is stunning. It is dark ruby-colored and has a mouth-watering nose of deep dish cherry pie, cookie dough, perfume, licorice, and vanilla bean. This liquid silk, decadent, sexy, corporeally-exciting, and hedonistic wine is full-bodied, deeply satisfying, and has the sweetest, most supple tannins imaginable. Jammy and candied cherries and raspberries dance across the taster's palate, taking possession of it and refusing to relinquish their hold. An intensely long wine on the finish, does it have enough brains to go with its sensuality? Drink it between 2002 and 2009. Bernard Dugat, with the assistance of his charming wife, son, and daughter, has fashioned extraordinary 1996s, nothing new for this family who, since the 1993 vintage, has been crafting some of Burgundy's finest wines. As I left Dugat-Py's cellars (her maiden name is Py and they added it to the estate's name to differentiate themselves from Bernard's famous cousin Claude) I felt that while his 1996's were superb, his 1995s were even better. With reflection, and with my notes from both tastings in hand, I realize that it comes down to the specific wines. Certain terroirs performed better in '95, and others in '96, most probably due to the weather which dramatically cut back yields in 1995 Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.