2009 Lafite Rothschild

Black purple red, elegant concentration of pure Lafite Cabernets, wild violets, succulent yet restrained fruit, both fleshy and firm, superb middle palate, not massively structured but like a Gothic cathedral: austere on the outside and soaring to great heights in the inside. Drink 2018-50.

Offers currant and wild raspberry, with a lilac and exotic character on the nose, turning to sweet tobacco and cedar. Full-bodied, showing very racy tannins and a balance of pretty fruit. This is powerful yet elegant, almost delicate, with a wonderful polish. But then the tannins take off. Muscular yet agile. A very classic Bordeaux style

Served blind at the Southwold 2009 tasting. Unfortunately we were afforded just one bottle of the Lafite '09, which is a pity because I (and many others) would have wished to re-taste it. This has a lifted bouquet with blackberry, sous-bois and a touch of dried herbs. Good fruit concentration here, Graves-like, complex with peripheral marmalade aromas emerging with time. The palate is full-bodied with succulent ripe tannins, slightly lower acidity, smooth and harmonious with a luscious, almost texturally honeyed finish. To be honest, I was expecting a little more from the 2009 and I hope that more breeding and terroir expression will seep through with time. Jan 2013, www.robertparker.com