1994 Lafite Rothschild

An elegant, intensely perfumed nose just beginning to unfurl. Concentrated blackcurrant, earth and wood on the palate though a little austere at the finish. Excellent wine but lacks a bit of depth. Tasted February 2000. Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com

Mid-crimson with a watery rim. Mid-intensity on the nose. Flavour slightly cooked? Austere and mean on the palate. Very tart and pinched. Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com

Because Lafite-Rothschild (1) tends to lack the weight of many wines of the northern Medoc, and (2) is never a flashy, ostentatious style of wine, it is often more difficult to evaluate when young than some of its neighbors. Made from nearly 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, this dark ruby/purple-colored wine is stubbornly backward, unappealing, and severe and astringent on the palate. There is plenty of weight, and the wine possesses admirable purity, with no suggestion of herbaceousness or underripe fruit, but the wine's personality refuses to be coaxed from the glass. The 1994 Lafite may turn out to be austere and disappointing flavor-wise, but possesses a fabulous set of aromatics (does that sound reminiscent of the 1961, another Lafite that was primarily Cabernet Sauvignon?). I am not giving up on this wine, but purchasers should be willing to wait 15-20 years before pulling a cork. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030. Feb 1997, www.robertparker.com