2006 Volnay Clos des Ducs

Bright black cherry fruit with a distilled overtone, augmented by sweetly pungent brown spices greets the nose from a glass of d'Angerville 2006 Volnay Clos Des Ducs. There is an overt sense of density and of chalky minerality, but – as with the more darkly-hued Taillepieds – that does not occlude the juicy flow of ripe fruit or a sense of lift and refinement. Well-knit and ineradicable in flavor as this is, I feel sure it will be worth following for ten or a dozen years, and strongly suspect that it is only showing hints of the complexity that will come in another 3-4. Dec 2009, www.robertparker.com