2005 Volnay Clos des Ducs
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Tasting notes
The 2005 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is a vintage I have not encountered for some time. At first, it is closed and obdurate on the nose, though there is fruit concentration here. It's just a Clos des Ducs that is playing its cards close to its chest. Earthy? The palate is initially tight-fisted, only reluctantly opening and offering tantalizing glimpses of a sweet core of fruit. Yet it feels distant that the moment, perhaps exaggerated when juxtaposed here against the more expressive 2010 Clos des Ducs. Patience required. Tasted at the Marquis d'Angerville tasting in London.
Critic scores
Average Score
David Schildknecht, Vinous
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Full, dark red. Very dark aromas of black fruits, spices, violet, licorice and minerals still seem a bit stunted. Then powerful, mouthfilling and classically dry on the palate, conveying a musky, lightly medicinal character to its black cherry, black raspberry, licorice and leather flavors. From the start, this very broad Volnay was the most backward wine in the cellar in 2005 and its huge tongue- and palate-saturating tannins still call for patience. (13.4% alcohol; September 19 harvest; 41 h/h; 3.55 pH)
François Duvivier’s first vintage as régisseur (estate manager, responsible for both viticulture and vinification at the domaine). Very clean aromas in the cellar and practically no sorting needed. Has been very closed. Harvest 19 September, yield 41 hl/ha, pH 3.55. Sweet and candified on the nose. Pure and very refined. Super-polished. For some time Guillaume d’Angerville thought initially that 2005 would be like 1976 and take 20 years to come round. But it is gently softening even if there is a whole load of (fine) tannin underneath. Inky for the moment but it will presumably eventually be a very representative Clos des Ducs. Dry finish. (JR)
Monopole. Much less evolved than the Clos des Ducs 2011 although Guillaume thinks it is just starting to open. Amazingly concentrated dark purplish crimson. Thick, still buried in the undergrowth. Dense and jewelly but still slightly bitter. The liquorice note shines through. (JR)
About the producer
Marquis d'Angerville is synonymous with the village of Volnay, having long made some of the village’s finest wines. Best known for its Premier Cru monopole vineyard, Clos des Ducs, this estate crafts fine-boned, elegant styles of Pinot Noir – wines that act as standard-bearers for the appellation.