2003 Volnay Clos des Ducs
Market price
Buying options
Tasting notes
Very dark red. Brooding, slightly reduced aromas of black raspberry, menthol, mint, licorice and leather, plus a distinct impression of liqueur-like dried fruits. Thick, tactile and dry; this very powerful Volnay shows as much soil as fruit today. Strong tannins saturate the sides of the mouth and tongue, mostly neutralizing the wine's sweetness. A large-scaled and extreme style but boasts good freshness. This big boy still needs more time in bottle to soften. I suspect that it will go on for another couple of decades. In response to the extreme heat that summer and the very early harvest at the end of August, Renaud de Villette carried out a shorter-then-normal cuvaison, followed by a relatively short élevage with less new oak than usual. (13.65% alcohol; August 26 harvest; 28 h/h; 3.53 pH)
Critic scores
Average Score
Pierre Rovani
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Prolonged heat. First vintage after Jacques d’Angerville’s death in July 2003. Renaud (de Villette, Guillaume’s brother-in-law and consultant agronomist who had worked alongside Jacques for many years) predicted first 19, then 5 then 1 September for the start of harvest, but in the end they began on 25 August! Clos des Ducs was harvested on 26 August. All credit to Renaud, less oak than usual and far fresher than most 2003s. Yield 28 hl/ha, pH 3.53. Deep and lustrous garnet. Clean and fresh on the nose without the excessive effects of extreme heat evident in many other 2003s. Just a little simple and candified on the palate. A modified success. Atypical Clos des Ducs, and actually an atypical 2003 because of its freshness, but a rewarding drink. Just a little bit dry on the end but otherwise a triumph. (JR)
Monopole. From magnum. Deeply coloured, spicy and relatively dense. The fine tannic grip adds to the impression of youth. Generous but still has a cool freshness to it. Retains that firmness of structure even when drunk with food (chicken with cream truffle sauce). (JH)
Guillaume's first vintage, and a very difficult one for Burgundy . Quite rich and concentrated but less complex than the 2004. Some sweetness. About the same ripeness as 2004. Very sweet but lots of fun. Tannins reasonably well covered. But they are certainly lurking there! This is not the delicate face of Pinot. Very chewy. Not especially long. (JR)
About the producer
Marquis d'Angerville is synonymous with the village of Volnay, having long made some of the village’s finest wines. Best known for its Premier Cru monopole vineyard, Clos des Ducs, this estate crafts fine-boned, elegant styles of Pinot Noir – wines that act as standard-bearers for the appellation.