1996 Volnay Clos des Ducs
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Tasting notes
Healthy medium red with a fresh rim. Medicinal black cherry and mint on the nose, plus a whiff of something rustic. Conveys a distinctly vinous, penetrating quality but this salty, high-acid style is not particularly fruity. Seems fully mature but should hold on for a while on its moderate density, firm acidity and tannic structure. Still, there's something here that's not 100% pristine--a characteristic I have not noticed in previous bottles of this wine. (13.5% alcohol; September 23 harvest; 42 h/h; 3.49 pH)
Critic scores
Average Score
Neal Martin
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Very high acid initially. Closed-up quite late and stayed closed until the end of its second decade. Harvest 23 September, yield 42 hl/ha, pH 3.49. Slightly cloudy ruby, with a fox-red rim. A slight edge of decay on the nose that I really like! Very evolved indeed. Mouth-filling. Real substance. Great balance and direction. Firm but with enough fruit and definitely not too much acidity. Long. A real success! (JR)
The 1996 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs has always been a troubling wine for this writer. Here, I noticed a slight mustiness in colour compared to other vintages. It has a modest bouquet with light floral, wilted violet petal scents and mint, opening nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied and quite structured, yet there is something "missing" at the centre. A heart perhaps? This feels uncharacteristically austere and bony on the finish. Guillaume d'Angerville opined that it was always hard to drink in its youth but is beginning to open. Personally, I would opt for the 1995 and not run the risk.
Bright ruby. Very like the 1997 to look at except a bit more intense. Still very light nose but again very sweet on the palate. Lots of charm. Really, just like a younger version of the 1997... but without the glorious balance yet. But no aggressive acidity. (JR)
About the producer
Marquis d'Angerville is synonymous with the village of Volnay, having long made some of the village’s finest wines. Best known for its Premier Cru monopole vineyard, Clos des Ducs, this estate crafts fine-boned, elegant styles of Pinot Noir – wines that act as standard-bearers for the appellation.