1985 Volnay Clos des Ducs
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Tasting notes
Moderately saturated red. Rather decadent aromas of red fruits, smoky tea, olive oil and dried rose are captivating if a bit past their peak. Boasts wonderful sweetness and serious plushness and palate presence but the olive oil and balsamic notes dominate any remaining fruit. It would have been nice to drink this bottle eight years ago. Finishes with smooth, fully resolved tannins. Guillaume d'Angerville told me he thought that this bottle taken from the estate's cellar was likely to be fresher than those in the U.S. market because it had not been moved since the outset. Still, he believes this vintage is past its peak, noting that he has more frequently had pleasant surprises with the '83. Incidentally, Angerville was in the U.S. in 1985 and his son Augustin was born in New York in the middle of the harvest. (13.2% alcohol; October 4 harvest; 26 h/h; 3.47 pH)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Harvest 4 October, yield 26 hl/ha, pH 3.47. Guillaume d’Angerville thinks it’s past its peak. 13.2% Pale, bright orangey ruby. Lightly gamey nose. More vitality than the 1987. Sweet and herbal. Real presence. Lots of grip and fruit. Very pure and fresh. (JR)
I must confess that I felt disappointed by the 1985 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs. It was pretty but in a facile manner, missing the exuberance and panache that the best '85s possess. That said, it does improve in the glass. The nose is pretty with tart red cherries and fresh strawberry: an "airy" bouquet without significant depth. The palate is likewise very well balanced and perhaps missing the substance you might have expected, yet with time you begin to appreciate the sensual nature of this Volnay. Yes, it feels a little slight compared to other '85s but there is energy and harmony here. It's just not the astonishing success that it might have been.
About the producer
Marquis d'Angerville is synonymous with the village of Volnay, having long made some of the village’s finest wines. Best known for its Premier Cru monopole vineyard, Clos des Ducs, this estate crafts fine-boned, elegant styles of Pinot Noir – wines that act as standard-bearers for the appellation.