2008 Riesling

Tart, bright lemon and gooseberry dominate a Trimbach 2008 Riesling whose salinity, chalkiness, and piquancy of juniper and huckleberry make for an impressively dense and gripping if slightly austere finish. This should be well worth following for 5-7 years. “The oenologists were saying in 2009 ‘Oh we have to get approval so that we can add acidity,’ but it was absolutely unnecessary, for us,” notes Pierre Trimbach, who indeed delivered a surprisingly animated collection, albeit one diminished in size by instances of declassification. The Trimbachs compare their 2008s with 1998, adding that there is something of 2001 to them, too. As a group, they are going to further the reputation of wines from this family for rewarding patience. Importer: Esprit Du Vin French Wine Merchants & Select European Estates, 48 Harbor Park Drive, Port Washington, NY 11050; www.edvwines.comteau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400