1998 Cotes du Rhone Pascal S

This wine is a noteworthy Cotes du Rhone that is reasonably priced for such high quality. Among the most natural wines made in France, it is bottled with neither fining nor filtration, and possess high levels of CO2 because the SO2 levels are extremely low. As the sign on the winery says, it is "vin du raisin," and is uncommonly natural, which is Gramenon's guiding philosophy. Made from Grenache harvested in late October, there are just under 475 cases of the 1998 Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Pascal. This wine is the Cotes du Rhone equivalent of a late-harvest Zinfandel, but more complex, vibrant, and concentrated. It avoids the heaviness that wines with residual sugar, and this kind of weight, alcohol, headiness, and thickness frequently exhibit. Pure, with gobs of jammy black fruits intermixed with tangy acidity and a slight notion of residual sugar, it is sweet, fat, rich, and best drunk with flavorful bistro dishes or full-flavored cheese. It should last easily for a decade or more. This is the wine of a rogue genius in the northern, colder terroirs of the southern Rhone Valley. It is not to be missed. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083