2009 Urziger Wurzgarten Alte Reben

Delicate apple aroma nicely complemented by a smidgeon of cloves. Fresh clean fruit with spice adding an idiosyncratic component. Pleasant tang of fruit peel on the finish, but just a little too light on the mid palate to hit the high notes. (MS)

Scented with strawberry distillate and black tea, Loosen’s 2009 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Alte Reben Grosses Gewachs deploys its modest (ca. 7 grams) acidity to better effect than does the corresponding Wehlener, generating satisfying juiciness of kiwi and peach, with the bitterness of fruit pit and black tea-like smoky pungency offering some counterpoint. Ample but not heavy; polished and glossy, it promises to perform well for at least the next 4-6 years. “I want real Kabinetts,” says Ernst Loosen by way of explaining his early start on the 2009 harvest, “between 80 and 83 Oechsle, with crisp acidity, freshness, and the like; and you can’t wait around, especially when you have five, maybe seven days of Kabinett-picking to do and every day ripeness is rising. This year, we wanted to delineate even more sharply the difference between Kabinett and Spatlese, as well as a distinct difference between Spatlese and Auslese.” In practical terms, this meant among other things slightly reducing the levels of residual sugar in the Kabinetts (Loosen says that trend will continue incrementally); and reserving botrytis fruit solely for wines labeled “Auslese.” Eiswein from Lay, Treppchen, and Sonnenuhr; Eiswein and T.B.A. from Pralat; as well as a T.B.A. from Wurzgarten were all – according to cellarmaster Bernhard Schug – in various states of fermentation or preparation for bottling when I visited in September, so consequently I shall review those wines (or at least some subset thereof) at such time as I report on the 2010 vintage. Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255