1989 Certan De May
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Tasting notes
Two bottles from my own cellar were proffered at different lunches in London. The bottles of 1989 Certan de May at 67 Pall Mall felt more advanced, though still pleasurable. But the first, opened at La Trompette at an off-line dinner, was superior. Lovely warm gravel, earthenware, red fruit and morels on the nose, not powerful yet well-defined; this could only be from Pomerol. The palate is well-balanced with fine tannins. Again, it is not structured like Lafleur or Petrus, yet it is harmonious with red berry fruit laced with Earl Grey and sous-bois on the finish. Drink now. Tasted at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner at 67 Pall Mall.
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In the past, I have expressed reservations about Certan de May's 1989, from its bizarre showings prior to bottling, and more conventional yet loosely-knit performances afterwards. This bottling revealed a raunchy, aged beef, gamey component that will prove to be controversial among tasters wishing to smell only new oak and fruit. While the wine possesses good concentration, its kinky, unusual aromatic profile and hard tannin dominate the concentration and fruit. Although distinctive, it does not live up to the quality of wines produced at Certan de May in such vintages as 1988, 1986, 1985, 1982, 1981, and 1979. Anticipated maturity: now-2009.
Old style, but attractive. Color is deep red, with a brick edge. Intense aromas of milk chocolate, berry and tobacco. Full-bodied and rather earthy, showing funky cedar and redwood flavors. Dry finish. Will it come around? Not sure.--1989 Bordeaux horizontal. Best after 2002.-James Suckling, Wine Spectator 1999